我的新玩具電動大腳車
雙５５０馬達並聯驅動，
雙７.２電池串聯，電壓１４.４V。
比例１／１０，重約４.３公斤。
全配備，買來只要充電就可以跑了。
對遙控車菜鳥的我，
初步跑起來感覺動力十足。

半透明的車殼耶

帥

車帥 但是呢? 照片中有張可以看到結婚照 也帥~ 男的帥 女的美

我也有一台,但是很小心,怕玩壞了沒零件,請問閣下零件都去哪訂??

以後可以升級無刷喔...猛到爆..加油

樓上說的是,但是升級後我擔心呎比問題,會找不到馬達齒,因為齒比不對,電變也會燒給你看..hpi到底有沒有貨我也不知道???

定組輪座要一兩個月.真不知國內到底有沒有備料?

阿不啦大大,您忘了我那台車的慘痛經驗.,一共等3個多月,不是一兩個月,真幹!!!
代理商....真濫
雖我現在玩cyclone,但零件都跟香港的同學拿,還比台灣便宜,請旅行社帶拿又很方便

阿晃勾起你的回憶.也只能用那兩個字表達.真搞不懂是部不錯的車但為什麼會沒備料ㄋ.會不會是一出來就買的原因?

原來大家都有這個問題,
我的Zilla終於也壞了,
後輪的萬向軸扭斷了,
找了同事作了鋁軸,
因為安裝的問題,
十字座還是用原來的塑膠座,
但撐不了幾顆電池,
換塑膠座裂開,
目前待料中,
跟頂X訂零件,
已經兩個星期了,
還不知道什麼會有,
唉!是不是hpi的零件都很難訂...
還是考慮玩雷虎的車子了...

讚

咳........頂x常常這樣.......等好久...

是頂尖....還是頂好......

零件可直接跟代理商金星02-2127686定可能比較快, 若是滑動式離合器(slipper clutch)調整的好, 傳動軸較不易損壞, 若調的差可能在大撞擊時連通往差速箱的傘齒都可能損壞。 其實一般E-zilla使用者需要備用的零件 大概就只有傳動軸(HB70569 driveshaft)和C柱(HB70554 c-hub), C柱可以把它拆下來用水煮10分鐘增加它的韌度, 而傳動軸可換Traxxas的, 就較不易損壞了。
還有就是原廠所附的避震器紅色彈簧太軟, 不適合劇烈的跳躍, 最好先換成4個Savage的紫色彈簧, 4紅4紫, 或8藍。Savage的改裝鋁合金避震器E-zilla也可使用。

e-zilla真的很不賴的電動大腳, 國外最完整的論壇網址給大家參考: http://ezillacomm.forumsplace.com/

離合器調整參考
能量因子_______________________________離合器轉緊後的調鬆圈數
---------------------------------------------------
原配550馬達, 用12顆電池________________轉鬆1/2圈
原配550馬達, 用14顆電池________________轉鬆3/4圈
中高速的改裝馬達, 用12顆電池___________轉鬆3/4圈
高速的改裝馬達, 用14顆電池_____________轉鬆1圈
超高速的改裝馬達, 用12顆電池___________轉鬆5/4圈 {1 圈+ 1/4圈}
超高速的改裝馬達, 用14顆電池__________轉鬆6/4圈{1 圈+ 1/2 圈}

若玩得很暴力時, 或用較強的電池時, 請轉鬆3/4圈, 就像我的例子(原廠出廠的設定較緊)

E-zilla 國外論壇的一些有用的資訊, 小弟有把它大致抓下來, 希望能找時間整理翻譯一下給對E-zilla有興趣的車友們參考。 目前把一些摘錄國外論壇的一些重點資料po上來, 先給大家先參考看看, 總比要看完整個論壇方便些:

輪胎tires:
if you want tires for the e-zilla, then these make an excellent choice: about the same diameter, but wider by 23mm. these will add stability and provide better traction. if you are looking for offroaders, then get any savage/tmaxx tires & rims [the stock rims can accomodate aftermarket tires only if they aren`t much wider than the rims - aka for proline 40series tires the stockers don`t fit nicely!]. make sure you alter the gearing if you install larger tires! also, keep in mind the rotating mass factor: each stock wheel weights 210gramms = 840gramms total. many tire-setups [such as the clodbuster rims&tires] exceed 300gramms per wheel! that equals 1200gramms of rotating mass - a tremendous change of momentum, that will definately limit the top speed,the runtime and the acceleration -no matter what you do with the gearing. so, if you are going to install larger tires, choose some with a minor weight and diameter difference towards the stock ones. otherwise, you will need more powerfull motors.
...
first maybe you could use the hpi nubz tires. they are 17mm hex. but maybe the ofna adapter that converts 14mm into 17mm hex fits the e zilla. it is just a guess. second possibility would be to use nice light rims e.g the Q6 hpi rims with the superlight panther low profile komodo dragon monster tires. -by rhylsadar


傳動機構drivetrain:
now that rhylsadar reminded me about the diffs, please note that the rear differential of the e-zilla is significantly stiffer than the front one to allow both good off-road traction and non-compromising steering. i personally plan to stiffen the rear diff even more. the stiffness or softness of the specific diffs is adjusted via the thickness [or thiness] as well as the amount of grease you use in the diff complex. a large dose of thick grease will make a diff stiffer.

行走高度和懸吊rideheight & suspension:
...There is a screw on cap with a bulge on either side at the front and rear of the truck, just above the metal purple hinge plates that ARENT covered...Undoing the screws on this black plastic 'cover' will reveal an upper and a lower hole for a pin that can adjust the angle of the drive shafts (?)...The truck ships with the shafts in the UPPER position, putting them in the LOWER position will change your arm (?) angle and keep you a little flatter for 'on-road' It may also help the 'tippy' problems y'all are having... -by BitHed
***
the stock e-zilla is already equipped with adjustable turnbuckles, and the suspension allows for toe-in/toe-out adjustment as well as the ackerman velocity tuning. and now that i mentioned toe-in.... all stock e-zillas have a factory adjusted rear toe-in of 3 degrees or so. i would suggest owners to re-adjust the rear toe to 0 [no toe-in nor toe-out] since it doesn`t help cornering as much as it is said to be [at least on the e-zilla -Sts and other trucks need rear toe-in!] and cuts a bit from the top-end range of the acceleration. also, if someone has stabillity problems [rolling while cornering at high speeds on grippy terrain] it would be a good idea to adjust the front toe to 1 or 2 degrees toe out. it will decrease the steering a bit, but will add stability on the other hand.
***
the shock ends, shock caps, spacers, springs, and other components on the savage shocks can be used with the stock zilla shocks. -by aznracer
***
this one is a helpful tip, both performance wise and durability wise. as i have experienced with my shocks, i broke the bottom part of it. from now on, i will mount my shocks upside-down. this helps by saving shock oil and keeping it clean (for the most-part), and keeping the weak, thin bottom part on the top of the shock. this will definnately help the jumpers out there. -by aznracer
***
IF YOU ARE GOING TO DO JUMPS WITH THE STOCK SHOCKS, THEN INSTALL STIFFER SPRINGS [2-5$]! OTHERWISE YOU WILL BREAK THEM! EVEN IF YOU WON`T DO CRAZY JUMPS, INSTALL SPRING PRELOADERS AT LEAST! THE STOCK ONES ARE VERY VERY SOFT!

充電器/充電/電池 chargers/charging/batteries:
yes,the digital piranha has a maximum charge rate of 3amps when powered from the built-in ac/dc supply. however, regarding the charge rate of the nimhs, i tell you its a long story! budget packs [such as the epic 3000 or the team orion 3000 ones] CANNOT be charged at a 5amp rate or so because [due mainly to their internal resistance] they will get hot charge after charge, thus shortening their lifespan. as a general rule of thump, slower charging rates [such as 1 or 2 amps] will give you the longest runtimes and the longest battery lifespan, BUT a signifficantly decreased punch and power during the run time. higher charging rates will give you the best punch. so, 3 or 4amps is a good compromise between those two choices. i charge my packs [both the cheap ones as well as the expensive ones] at the 4amp charge rate [no matter what the intellipeak says about the 3amp being the upper limit-that is BS] without any problems. however, the charge rate isn`t the only factor. the cutoff peak voltage IS a very important factor into the equation. since the intellipeak ones do not have adjustable peak cutoff, its risky to charge nimhs at very high rates. what is absolutely safe and 100% effective, [which i would recommend to you] is to charge at 4amps for the first 30minutes, then decrease the charge rate at 3 amps and let the pack be charged to peak. i use this method with the cheap packs when the ambient temperature is too hot [aka summer], and my packs barely get warm. i get an excellent punch that way. however, e-zilla`s gt charger is another story: you can charge ANY nimh to 4a rate [as long as the pack is not a new one! -it should be broken-in first!] without any heat problems [because the gt charger has a lower cutoff value]. now regarding the discharge rate, yes, 1a is good and 2amps is better. more than that, and the slow-cellreviving-discharge goes away. BUT BEWARE: most chargers of the intellipeak line HAVE A FIXED 2.60volt CUTOFF VOLTAGE DURING THE DISCHARGE, WHICH IS VERY LOW! if so,you will ruin your packs! check if it has an adjustable discharge cutoff voltage and if yes, set it at NO LESS THAN 5.4volts and no more than 5.6volts. always remember that it is best to overcharge a nimh pack than to overdischarge it! anything less than 5.4volts [for 6cell pack] and it is overdischarged. if the discharge cut-off is fixed, then buy a 5$ voltmeter or multimeter and connect it in parallel [piece of cake 1minute job] to the output leads of the charger [the two ones that go to the pack]. as closing in to the end of the discharge, watch the voltage and disconnect the pack when the voltage drops at 5.4volts or so. if the pack was used in your e-zilla just about before the discharge process, then you should see the voltage drop to 5.4volts in about 5 or 10 minutes max. ........
since your gp3700packs are already used [aka broken-in] you don`t have to go through the break-in process [aka charge at slow charge rates for the first 3-5 times]. which means that you should charge them at a rate of 4-5amps which will give you very good "punch". since these cells are classified as high-end you don`t have to worry about slow-charging to prevent them of getting hot [as you would if you had cheap 3000mah packs]. so, charge them at max rate [4amps] with the gt escape charger,which is equiped with both negative and delta peak [maybe it would be a good idea to read the whole current thread - you will find good info on that]. assuming that the batteries are totally empty [discharged], they should be charged fully within 55minutes at that rate. for the very first times that the gt charger is used, it is possible that it will false peak-aka not fully charge your batteries. so, keep an eye on the watch and if it takes significantly less time than 55 minutes [e.g: 30minutes] to charge them [both red lights stay steady red and the fan stops-indicating the end of the charge] then disconnect the packs and reconnect them after 3seconds to continue charging. the batteries SHOULD be warm after a complete charge [general rule of thumb]. for the first 5 charges [at 4a] with the gt charger it would be a good idea to watch the packs periodically for heat issues [unlikely to...but...keep an eye even now and then].

new batteries generic break-in process [with the stock gt charger]:
for the first 2 charges, charge at the lowest possible rate [no more than 1amp IN ANY CASE]. for the next 2, get a step upwards [no more than 2amps]. then you can charge at 4amps for most packs. anyways, the stock charger is 100% fine for charging -but thats about it. i suggest that anyone would buy a good charger [budget but GOOD: duratrax digital piranha, high-end: duratrax ICE or the triton]. a good charger is the best option for both break-in process AND periodic conditioning [cycling]. for every-day use, the stock one does its job good.

如何減少電壓峰值判斷錯誤
To eliminate false peaks, make sure all conections are tight. many connectors [such as those leading out of the charger and leading to the battery] may get a loose connection, and that leads to false peaks [will explain that if requested]. also make sure that you charge at an appropriate rate. for example, charging a [especially when new] 1600mah nicd pack at 4-5 amps can easily lead to a false peak. make sure you give your packs "scaled" charging. for the first charge - charge slowly.after one-two cycles, charge a bit faster.then faster,etc. after 8 cycles or so you should get to charge them at full rate [3-5 amps depending on the pack] without problems nor false peaks ever again. consider getting a used PC power supply [very cheap - around 5-10$ or 20$ new in the box] to make a decent PS for the GT charger, which is really handy when you have to charge a bunch of high capacity packs for the next day [or the next bashing session whatever].
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如何使用電腦電源給直流充電器ac/dc power supply for dc chargers:
any pc power supply capable of delivering 9-10 amps minimum at the 12V output will be OK. i use an old 300W one, which gives 15 amps at 12V and i use both the e-zilla`s GT charger and the Duratrax intellipeak charging at full amps without any problems. around 9amps for the GT and another 5-6 for the intellipeak are needed, but the power supply never gets even warm. great deal...i bought it used for 5euros! you can get a new pc power supply for 20$ or less. keep in mind that the wattage of a PSU is not the best consultant. i have seen PSUs with 400W output delivering only 10amps at the 12V output wires. all PSUs have a label on them which notes the maximum amps delivered at each voltage state [-12V,-5V,-3.3V,3.3V,5V,12V]. be sure to check those specs and emphasize the +12V one. that is the one you will be using for RC DC chargers. for full 12V stable voltage capability, 99.9% of PSUs have to have a small load on the 5V output as well. use a bulb or something there and you will get the smooth 12V output. you can also keep a pair of 5V/Ground output leads/wires as well to break in motors or power a lathe or so. to power on the pc ps, you need to attach a switch [or solder permanently] to the power_OK/Power_ON wire [usually that is purple] to the ground [usually any black wire]. if you have a pc mainboard/motherboard manual, open it and find the page with the ATX connector chart [nearly all MB manuals have this chart] to find the power_on wire that has to be connected to the ground for the ps to power on. if you don`t have a manual, go to a mainboard manufacturer`s web page and download one. hope that helps....

操控steering:
keep in mind that there is a steering setting thingy on the radio. if your truck rolls over too much, decrease the turning radius. -by aznracer
***
there is a purple anodized [spring preloaded] nut just next to the steering servo [under the truck]. tightening that nut will provide more responsive steering BUT if you crash a lot it could harm the steeering servo! but its a good tip for racers since there aren`t many obstacles to crash wide open on the track. keep in mind that this nut loosens a bit run after run [depends on how you drive]. re tighten it every 20runs or so. otherwise you will loose steering and steering responsiveness.

一般維護generic maintenance:
every 5-10 runs, remove the wheels then remove the bearings and clean them thoroughly - a LOT of mud and debris gets there! if you keep it that way for lots of runs without maintenance, a bearing could be shot. even if it won`t, mud and dirt steals a lot of torque and speed from the motors. so ocassionally, clean the external drivetrain. also, the slipper clutch is tough, but the factory setting is a little loose. tighten it by 1/4 of a turn. i had to re-tighten mine only 2 times in the last 3 months or so, after many many runs. you don`t have to remove the transmission to adjust the slipper clutch. just unscrew the 2 screws that hold the ESC and pull it out of the way for some centimeters, then open the transmission tap and using a hex wrench tighten the slipper clutch.
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E-Zilla 優點
1. really tough, very duable.
2. speed is not bad with stock packs, but FLIES with some good GPs or IB packs.
3. the ESC that comes with it is very good, e-maxx users have some problems with their emaxx esc.
4. handles really well.
5. The body looks nice (imo, i might be on the crazy side lol)
6. you can beat the truck out of its wits and will still ask for more.
7. Some people have interchanged parts from the savage to the e-zilla. the shocks may fit, and the wheels will fit. lol

E-Zilla 缺點
1. the C-Hubs tend to break more often than other parts.
2. the stock battery packs are junk, toss em and buy some GP packs.
3. tends to roll over at sharp turns...can be fixed by the shock adjusting and mayb 40 series rims.
4. HARD to find replacement parts or hop-ups. horizon hobby has the C-Hub set, which if im not mistaken comes with 2 c-hubs (correct me if im wrong)
===================================================================================

The body that it comes with is a very nicley detailed lex-an beetle body and i hate it i think that it is the ugliest thing i have ever seen but they include with the kit extra body post of different heights to let you put any body you choose on it and bodies such as the hpi bronco & the jeep Rubicon fit the truck absolutely fantastically the wheelbases match up perfectly, they fit this truck better than the truck they was designed for.

Opposed to what some other people say the suspension is well set up for racing right out of the box compared to an e or t maxx those trucks tipped right over on high speed turns badly with the stock suspension setup.

The stock 2000mah batteries it comes with are pretty crappy, after installing 2 peak racing power max 2400 packs using the stock charger to charge them the acceleration was 3 times as good hard to keep the front tires on the ground and top speed was increased by at least 30 percent with the new packs you could stand to go up at tooth or two on the pinion to help keep the tires on the ground and increase top speed. A great first upgrade is some better packs, The gt speed controller it come swith is a absolutely fantastic performer with a large heatsink it stays cool and works very well.

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1. If you run in dirty/muddy/dusty surface, it will get on the shock shaft and compress into the shock body. this will lead to a really dirty shock oil in the inside. i took my shocks apart after i wash bashing and the shock oil was basically mud!!! i set them apart and waited for the savage shocks to come.

2. this one is a helpful tip, both performance wise and durability wise. as i have experienced with my shocks, i broke the bottom part of it. from now on, i will mount my shocks upside-down. this helps by saving shock oil and keeping it clean (for the most-part), and keeping the weak, thin bottom part on the top of the shock. this will definnately help the jumpers out there.

3. GET SOME SHOCK COVERS!!!!! (or shock socks, w/e u wana call em'). you will be changing shock oil every dirty run if you dont. what i did was take one of those long baloons (about 5" long deflated) and cut the top part, slid it over the shock, and tweaked it so that it doesnt compress the shock by itself. i will eventually take my stretchy book cover (you can get them from your office depot, or any store that focuses on work appliances or school resources) and make my own shock socks, saving myself $20. good deal eh?

4. keep in mind that there is a steering setting thingy on the radio. if your truck rolls over too much, decrease the turning radius.

5. this is what a member from another forum told me...the orange savage shocks are PERFECT for the zilla. it gives it less bounce on the jumps and still handles well. you guys might give it a try!!
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One tip for everyone: every 5-10 runs, remove the wheels then remove the bearings and clean them thoroughly - a LOT of mud and debris gets there! if you keep it that way for lots of runs without maintenance, a bearing could be shot. even if it won`t, mud and dirt steals a lot of torque and speed from the motors. so ocassionally, clean the external drivetrain. also, the slipper clutch is tough, but the factory setting is a little loose. tighten it by 1/4 of a turn. i had to re-tighten mine only 2 times in the last 3 months or so, after many many runs. you don`t have to remove the transmission to adjust the slipper clutch. just unscrew the 2 screws that hold the ESC and pull it out of the way for some centimeters, then open the transmission tap and using a hex wrench tighten the slipper clutch. WARNING: wheelies and flipping on the lid are going to be much easier if you do that! {that is very bad sometimes - believe me... flipping every 15 seconds...

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Soften up a little those savage shocks! they are made for a heavier truck with a different weight calibration. since you use them on the e-zilla, you should use a bit softer springs with them, otherwise other truck parts will take the impact absorbing! and that is bad because you will break something soon....

There is a screw on cap with a bulge on either side at the front and rear of the truck, just above the metal purple hinge plates that ARENT covered...Undoing the screws on this black plastic 'cover' will reveal an upper and a lower hole for a pin that can adjust the angle of the drive shafts (?)...The truck ships with the shafts in the UPPER position, putting them in the LOWER position will change your arm (?) angle and keep you a little flatter for 'on-road' It may also help the 'tippy' problems y'all are having...

Even with the stock setting of that pin, the shocks are loaded with very very soft springs which can NOT hold the e-zilla into its full rideheight. actually, the ground clearence of a moving stock e-zilla is as low as 2inches or so. with stiffer springs you can easily get 3inches.

negative shock travel is good as long as it is near the 10-30% range. with the stock springs, e-zilla`s shocks are compressed near 50-70% {!!!} which literally gives very little [positive] travel left, plus it makes the shocks breakable in high jumps. spring preloading IS NECESSARY. i use 20mm spring preloaders [spacers] at all 8 shocks, and the negative shock travel has been decreased to 20%, which is a very comfortable value for both jumping and handling. after all, 8 spacers cost around 2$, so its worth that investment.

all stock e-zillas have a factory adjusted rear toe-in of 3 degrees or so. i definately suggest owners to re-adjust the rear toe to 0 [no toe-in nor toe-out] since it doesn`t help cornering as much as it is said to be [at least on the e-zilla] and cuts a bit from the top-end range of the acceleration. also, if someone has stabillity problems [rolling while cornering at high speeds on grippy terrain] it would be a good idea to adjust the front toe to 1 or 2 degrees toe out. it will decrease the steering a bit, but will add stability on the other hand. just my 0.02...

They told me that the GT ESC has a limit of 19turns [i have runned even 17turn motors at 14cells!]
Most drivetrain issues [in all rc vehicles] are most likely caused by lack of maintanance.

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If your batteries get hot when CHARGING THEM, then you have a problem! any nimh pack which tends to overheat when charging, will die soon -that is a RULE! charge them at a lower rate, do not recharge more than twice a day, do not store them for long periods of time without charging them first, do not fast-charge new batteries [break-in procedure must be followed], AND MOST IMPORTANT OF ALL: ALWAYS LEAVE 1 HOUR OF RESTING FOR THE PACKS AFTER USE!
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Even the best quality,teflon or rubber bearings ALSO need relubricating twice a year or so. otherwise, friction production arrises and spans, thus generating even more heat, which leads to streching [natural metal property] which leads to more friction and the cycle continues with the following impacts:
-shorter ball bearing lifespan.
-lower top speed.
-slower acceleration.
-more stress on the drivetrain and powerplant.
-less overal system efficiency.

RULE: no matter what bearings your rc car has, YOU HAVE to relubricate them even now and then. sealed bearings are almost maintanance-free [such as those the e-zilla is equipped with], BUT even these need to be re-lubricated periodically [the sealing keeps the dirt out of the bearings BUT doesn`t lubricate {LOL} them]. i suggest a minimum service interval of 3 months and a maximum of 1 year. use a foiler or paper knife [or anything with very small "nose"] to pick the rubber sealing a bit [DO NOT REMOVE COMPLETELY!], strech a bit and from the opening that appears insert a drop [or two maybe] of high-quality low-drag ball bearing oil [such as the trinity oil bearing lube].

of course, the cleaning of the suspension, the drivetrain AND the souroundings of the bearings SHOULD be cleaned after EVERY run.

太棒了,太專業了,
貨已經拿到了.
後來有問金星,
其實都有現貨,
大概是模型店久久才訂一次貨吧,
找金星是不是比較貴?

原配充電器充電要則
charge at 1amps for the first and the second charge, then at 2amps for the 3rd and 4th, then at 4amps always. when the packs are empty, it should take at least 50-55 minutes to complete the charge at 4amps, 105-110 minutes at 2amps and 3,5 hours at 1amp. if the charging process stops before the estimate time [both red leds glow steady and the fan stops indicating the end of the charge], unplug the packs, wait 5 seconds then re-connect them. your packs should reach those estimates AND be warm at the end of the charge. if they aren`t warm, disconnect, wait 5secs, then re-connect them again to re-peak. any false peaks should vanish after the first 5 cycles or so.

the charger will deplete your car`s battery within 5-10 charges or so. get a pc power supply [15-20$ new] to power your charger. for the moment, just remove a door of your pc`s case and find an unused 4pole standard connector [such as those that lead to your hard disk or DVD]. connect the red lead of the charger to the YELLOW wire of the connector, AND the black lead of the charger to the black lead of the connector. there are 2 black wires in the connector. use the one that is mounted just next to the yellow wire. that will work until you buy a power supply.
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Make sure that you let loose the throttle when landing after the jump. there will still be much torque to the diffs when landing anyway but if you already or still are on the throttle it will be worse

Any 7cell hump pack will work in Zilla. the 7th cell must be in the middle. you will have to cut a small piece of plastic out of the battery holders for 7cell packs to fit properly. with good 7cell packs, the top speed is about 36mph.

It appears you have broken a Universal Shaft Set (part 70555). I have broken 2 so far. As of now, my Zilla is 2 wheel drive because of it, but I ordered replacements. Also, I have broken 2 bevel gears. It appears in your picture that the draft shaft has broken and Horizon Hobby has them for order. You can go to horrizonhobby.com and search for HBS70555 and the part should pop up.
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back in september i was telling people to use stiffer springs. noone listens to me and a bunch of guys come here every now and then and telling that they broke a shock,etc. then i started telling people to waterproof if they run into muddy terrain, and another bunch of people come by with fried packs. now i told people to greaze the universal axles` channels, and here is what happens if you don`t!

"the point where the universals joint together, is a completely mis-abused part when it comes to maintenance for most truck owners: i suggest that you remove the c-hubs, pull the outer universal axles out and apply thick grease [after cleaning] to the channels of both the outer and inner universals, so that they slide smoothly in and out [within each other] when the suspension works and travels up and down. re-apply grease every 10-20runs or so. failure to do this, can lead to serious power loss due to spin drag of 'blocked' universals." add: ..and/or BROKEN axles IF THE CORRESPONDING A-ARM/WHEEL ELEVATES WHEN THE UNIVERSAL IS BLOCKED!!!


well the part is HB70555 as Chris said, BUT i guess that the HB70568 AXLE SHAFT 6x31mm and the HB70569 DRIVE SHAFT 6x65mm will come cheaper since the HB70555 is the whole set of shafts. not sure 100% though...

MUGEN SUPER, TAMIYA ANTI-WEAR grease, even the tamiya`s grease will work. i use standard ball bearing heavy duty grease that i got from a local 1:1 car shop. as long as it won`t bleed, any thick grease will be ok.

'traxxas heat sinks', they cost about 4.8$], and a large fan on them

PARTS link
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=595_870_871&PHPSESSID=86179f76870bb82ba7b6a5f9afc33c88
http://www.birminghammodelcentre.co.uk/acatalog/Hot_Bodies_EZilla_Spares.html
www.modelsport.co.uk
http://stores.ebay.co.uk/EddystonesRCstore
http://www.rc-max.com
http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?sofocus=bs&sbrftog=1&from=R10&catref=C6&satitle=EZ&sacat=-1%26catref%3DC6&bs=Search&fsop=1%26fsoo%3D1&coaction=compare&copagenum=1&coentrypage=search&fgtp=&sadis=200&fpos=ZIP%2FPostal&ftrt=1&ftrv=1&saprclo=&saprchi=&seller=1&sass=atomic_store
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1st thing to do with a stock ezilla is get stiffer springs. don`t even bother running it with the stock setup: its WAY too soft. i recommend 8blue or 4purple/4stock_red setup [1 purple / red in each a-arm]. i run the second combo.the springs you will need are the [117mm long] HPI savage springs [available almost everywhere].

2nd thing to do is decide wether you will be running 12 or 14cell setup. once you go to a 14cell setup, there is no turning back [due to performance difference]. however, 14cells [even with the stock setup] is FAST [about 36mph with tons of power and torque]. if you don`t know how to drive well and/or if you don`t have a huge open field [without obstacles] to train your driving abilities, then you will break more parts through the process of learning to drive. its your call. at any rate [6cell stick or 7cell stick/hump packs], pick good cells. that is very important in two ways-aspect: a.you get the most out of your ezilla, b.good batteries last for a long time while cheap/crappy ones die EARLY [especially in high-drain applications like a dual motor 4.3kg monster truck].

3rd thing to do with the stock ezilla is get the large traxxas heatsinks [link posted in the previous page] and a standard 80 or 92mm pc cooling fan [3-5$ cost] and mount it on the heatsinks [read the first pages for info on that].

4th, check your diffs for proper shimming before running for the first time. sometimes the diffs are badly shimmed from the factory [thats normal due to manufacturing tolerances]. if your diffs are binding and don`t rotate smoothly [check the entire drivetrain for that], then don`t run until you maintain it properly.

other than that, there is only the periodic maintenance to be done...
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IMO, there is no need to gear down. gearing is used to match a specific style of driving and a specific motor powerband WITH the driving variables [eg: ambient temperature and terrain]. since the motors are the same, more power=more heat. heat=friction based heat [rotor/bushings and commutator/brushes] + I*I*R based heat [electrical current on the windings]. if you decrease the second factor [with undergearing] you will increase the first one due to overevolving a rotor which is supported on bushings. actually, when a motor gets more amp draw, it creates more torque. in a torque-based 23turn 550 motor, that means much MORE torque. that means that the vehicle will accelerate faster, thus reaching the Z point of the motor powerband curve in less time, thus actually could be running even cooler than before. however, that depends on the way you drive. continuous slamming on the throttle/brakes will cause the motors to overheat no matter what the batteries are. it is a very wide subject to be analysed within some lines, but i maybe include such a section in the 'motors 101' article which is coming along. in my experience, the temperature difference between 12 and 14 cells in the ezilla was only 3 degrees celcius with the same gearing. undergearing a motor which its rotor spins on bushings can be fatal: the over-revolving will cause much more heat [due to friction] on the bushings/rotor than on the armature [due to amp flow]. therefore modified motors [especially when spining at 30-50.000 rpm] are supported with bearings. if they had bushings they would burn out in 2minutes. it is the same reason that larger motors -such as powertool motors- [which run on bushings] are basing their performance on excessive torque -not rpms. to wrap it up, i strongly recommend that you use heatsinks&fans on the motors -no matter the count of cells used. now regarding the shafts issue, make sure you [do me a favor and] read what i said about greasing the universal joints. otherwise, even with 6cells overall you will break a shaft someday.

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...The STOCK EZ10 contains 20 bearings...

FOUR 5x11: 2 in the FRONT gear box and 2 in the REAR...

EIGHT 10x15: 2 in the FRONT hubs, 2 in the REAR hubs, 2 in the FRONT diff case and 2 in the REAR diff case...

EIGHT 6x12: 2 in the FRONT hubs, 2 in the REAR hubs and 4 in the CENTER gear box...

...The 3 bushings in the steering rack can be replaced with THREE 6x12 bearings...
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Any pc power supply capable of delivering 9-10 amps minimum at the 12V output will be OK. i use an old 300W one, which gives 15 amps at 12V and i use both the e-zilla`s GT charger and the Duratrax intellipeak charging at full amps without any problems. around 9amps for the GT and another 5-6 for the intellipeak are needed, but the power supply never gets even warm. great deal...i bought it used for 5euros! you can get a new pc power supply for 20$ or less. keep in mind that the wattage of a PSU is not the best consultant. i have seen PSUs with 400W output delivering only 10amps at the 12V output wires. all PSUs have a label on them which notes the maximum amps delivered at each voltage state [-12V,-5V,-3.3V,3.3V,5V,12V]. be sure to check those specs and emphasize the +12V one. that is the one you will be using for RC DC chargers. for full 12V stable voltage capability, 99.9% of PSUs have to have a small load on the 5V output as well. use a bulb or something there and you will get the smooth 12V output. you can also keep a pair of 5V/Ground output leads/wires as well to break in motors or power a lathe or so. to power on the pc ps, you need to attach a switch [or solder permanently] to the power _OK/ Power _ON wire [usually that is purple] to the ground [usually any black wire]. if you have a pc mainboard/motherboard manual, open it and find the page with the ATX connector chart [nearly all MB manuals have this chart] to find the power _on wire that has to be connected to the ground for the ps to power on. if you don`t have a manual, go to a mainboard manufacturer`s web page and download one. hope that helps.... '

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It is normal and it is common for dv-based peak chargers. as i said 100times so far, you SHOULD have a minimum of 1amp load on the 5v output. you are lucky the ps or the charger didn`t get harmed. however, it WILL if you keep doing those things. that load will also remove voltage rippling/flickering, thus allowing for less false peaks, and smoother charger performance.
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keep in mind that you need to re-peak them before use. nimh`s loose 1-10% [depends on the quality] of their capacity and punch every 24hours of sitting... [its called self-discharge rate]
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smaller pinion = more initial torque...which means more breakage... thats not the way to go [imo]...

if you want to do wheelies, then you have to have traction... try better tires for example, OR soften the rear suspension a bit while stiffening the front one... that will you give you wheelies without compromising the safety of the drivetrain... [it 'moves'/transfers some weight to the rear].

fully tighten the slipper clutch [you need to have the spur gear cover open to see where the spring fully retains], then back of 1 full turn. that will give you excellent drivetrain protection...


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another MAJOR factor to drivetrain problems AND less torque and top speed, is the tire stiffness and weight.

periodically weight your wheels. if they exceed by long [say 20-30gramms more weight for each wheel], its time to boil them to remove the tires, then clean the debris which is inside and re-glue them. fuzzy process...that is why i always recommend sealing the wheels with epoxy glue [once you are certain that they are clean internally] AND use ultra-firm tire inserts. ultra firm tire inserts HELPS A LOT with the tire-flating phenomenon. a tire that flats out [that happens a lot with heavy trucks], will seriously limit the torque, the top speed, AND the efficiency and durability of the drivetrain. always keep that in mind.
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BODY

I never broke a body post also as soon as i placed the rear all the way down and the front 1 hole from the bottom. if you mount them high [stock], you will break one. otherwise...no way...

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C-HUB

the main problem with the e-zilla`s stock c-hubs is that the plastic isn`t flexible at all. that makes it breakable when crashing on obstacles.

a quick [but efficient] solution:
boil them. stop laughing. i am serious. if you boil the hard plastic, it becomes much more flexible when it cools down. that will really help durability tolerances. its an old trick i was doing with other parts [including gears] some years ago, and i remembered it yesterday, so i thoughout i could share it.

make sure you boil them -but don`t melt them. 5-10 minutes are sufficient. let them cool down normally. don`t put them in the fridge, and don`t put them in cool water once boiled. let them cool down naturally.

馬達和電子變速的散熱與防水

還有就是很重要的馬達和電子變速的散熱與防水改裝, 小弟雖沒做防水(捨不得讓它跑泥水地), 但有做散熱, 其實Ezilla的電子變速很強, 如果不是用14顆電池或是改裝馬達, 小弟覺得不會很熱, 但馬達的熱度就較高, 所以我有加散熱風扇。 只要把電腦用的4公分x4公分直流12v風扇鎖在電子變速上就可做電變的散熱。 至於馬達加風扇有兩種做法, 用8公分x8公分直流12v風扇鎖在中間變速箱的塑膠殼上, 或是用像 3Racing的散熱片加風扇組 http://tw.f2.page.bid.yahoo.com/tw/auction/b28462782?u=lksst , 電源線只要直接接上馬達的電線接頭, 把它拆開夾上再把膠套套上即可, 不用焊接喔。 適當的散熱可大大增加馬達和電變的穩定度和使用壽命。

國外馬達散熱加防水的做法參考:
http://ezillacomm.forumsplace.com/message24.html

分享一下我的經驗,
我的Zilla每跑完一組電池,
都會摸摸電變,馬達及電池,
只要不是急劇的前進又後退,
通常都不會燙,
只有連續跑了數組電池,
或急劇的前進又後退,
才會有點燙,

另外電池用到快沒電時,就會燙,
所以只要摸到電池有點溫度時,
就知道差不多了,該換電池了.

至於風扇,好像馬達內部就有風扇了,

還有傳動軸的想法,
如果是傳動軸斷,
更換算方便,
但如果是齒輪箱的內部零件,
那就不太方便了,

個人想法參考看看就好.

首先,要謝謝e-zilla車主以及A U G U S T 提供此相關訊息,相信這些文章,對於E-ZILLA車主能提供相當程度的了解(包括本人)!!

基本上我車子狀況與樓上車主相同,尤其換上600EMOTOR,電變,電池及馬達都很燙,(後輪有加大)這點需注意,最後換上白馬達,過熱情形稍微好轉,但是電池粽是粉燙,原因大概是電池老化,再者是電池輸出大,

另外有一點,最近加油要順順加,一下子全速前進車子就會頓一下,就停駐跑不動,我想大概是沒有在馬達端加電容吧!